Why Did San Antonio Smell Like Chili?

Before the River Walk became a postcard, before downtown San Antonio became a cleaned-up tourist machine with margarita specials and laminated menus, the plazas belonged to working people. Wagon drivers. Soldiers. Ranch hands. Musicians. Market women. Families trying to survive. Strangers passing through town with bad boots and empty stomachs. And there, in the middle of it all, were the Chili Queens.